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Ramblings Rewritten As I start this adventure, I am not sure what to expect. Africa, thoughts from my childhood, articles from Outdoor Life, old Tarzan movies, and Spider Web and his jungle machine, run through my mind. The excitement is overwhelming. This adventure begins with the first leg of my flight, San Francisco to Miami. Then, on to Cape Town and Africa. May 22, MIAMI TO CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA Arrived in Cape Town, 40 minutes early. Only 13 hours and 14 minutes from Miami. I am thinking about the old-time hunters. They would have taken that long just to load the items they were bringing on the steam ship. Then, it was three weeks or more to Cape Town or Durban. When we arrived the weather in Cape Town was scudding and cold, but everyone seemed warm and friendly. Customs was a breeze. With the help of a local, I was back at the airlines counter getting ready to start my last leg. Port Elizabeth. I understand someone from our outfitter, John X Safaris, will pick us up early tomorrow morning. MAY 23, PORT ELIZABETH I woke up this morning to a beautiful sunrise. The Indian Ocean is just 100 yards away, the waves are very shallow, and the seas calm. Going to have breakfast alone this morning, as everyone is still sleeping. We met with Harry Sparks, one of the professional hunters (PH) from John X Safaris. The plans have been changed slightly. I, along with Linda and John will be going to Vanderkloof in the Northern Cape. Once there, I will meet my PH, Mynhard Herholdt. Then, my hunt will start. Peter and Saskia will be going to Merriman, also in the Northern Cape with their PH, Harry Sparks, to start their hunt. The drive to Vanderkloof took about six hours and was very relaxing. Our driver was knowledgeable of the country and shared his knowledge freely. The landscape was similar to Nevada, with its high desert. The country was full of hills and canyons, with wild life everywhere. The foliage was similar to our scrub oak, and buttes were all around the horizon. MAY 24, MY FIRST SHOT IN AFRICA First thing this morning, Mynhard and I went to a spot where he thought game would pass. We were there about 45 minutes. During that time, three young gemsbuck came within 25 yards of us. Two older gemsbuck, not yet trophies, passed us within 15 yards. One of them remained in front of us, at about 30 yards, for over 15 minutes. The highlight of that stand was when a herd of springbok came over a ridge, about a half-mile away, then cut through the valley floor. They stopped about 10 yards from us. We remained very still. The springbok knew something was not right. They stood there for over five minutes, stomping and snorting, until natural instincts took over and they split. Sorry to say, I had left my camera in the truck. Later that morning, Mynhard spotted a large herd of gemsbuck and felt that they deserved a closer look. Glassing them from a low ridge, Mynhard pointed one out to me and said, “He is as good as I have seen in a long time.” He wanted me to take him. The shot was not long, only a hundred yards, but it was an important one. My first shot in Africa, and I am sure that my PH was evaluating me. The gemsbuck moved in the clear and presented the classic broadside pose. I placed the cross hairs on the gemsbuck’s shoulder, slowly squeezing the trigger. At the sound of the shot, the gemsbuck fell, not taking one step. After we walked to the downed animal, Mynhard showed a broad smile as he told me that my gemsbuck was well over 40 inches and was the largest one he had taken. Later, I was told that he has taken over 200 gemsbuck, so mine was very special. That afternoon, we went back to the lodge. The lodge is located high on a hill, overlooking a manmade lake named after the town of Vanderkloof. Vanderkloof is a small retirement community and, like most towns in South Africa, is very neat and well trimmed. As the sun is setting, I am sitting on the patio of our lodge, overlooking the lake, sipping a brandy, and reviewing my notes from the day. John, a co-hunter, has returned. He has taken a great gemsbuck. Saskia and Peter have also returned. Peter has taken all three springbucks, common, black and white. Needless to say, he is very happy. At the end of the first day, I am very pleased with John X Safaris. The people, equipment, and the leases have all been first rate. MAY 25, PISTOL AND RIFLE About 9:00 this morning, Mynhard and I started our hunt. After driving around for the better part of an hour, we spotted several young eland and kudu and stopped to take some photos. While we were there, one of Mynhard’s friends drove up. After they talked for several minutes, Mynhard came over and asked me if I wanted to try for a real nice springbok with my S-W M629 handgun. To make a long story short, we drove a few miles, got out of the truck, and did a short stalk. We got within 75 yards of the springbok, and I made the shot. I now have the number 3 springbok taken with a handgun. (Safari Club International) That afternoon, we drove out to a hilly area. The valley that we walked was full of loose rocks and shale. The walk was not hard, but it wasn’t easy, either. After walking for just under an hour, a small antelope jumped up in front of us and took off. It turned out that the antelope was a mountain reedbuck since we were hunting for reedbuck, we were interested. Mynhard, glassing the antelope, told me that “He was a good one” and if he stopped, “Try to take him.” The reedbuck made a long circle through the valley. He stopped once, behind a large bush. No shot was offered to me. After he caught his breath, he was off with a vengeance. He stopped the second time, around 375 yards away. He was in the clear. I was told to keep the cross hairs of my scope just under his spine, where the neck and back came together, and “Squeeze the trigger slowly.” I did what I was told. At the sound of the shot, my back was slapped, and everyone yelled “Great shot.” We had a Jack Russell terrier with us, in case the animal was hit and tried to get away. After the quick walk up to my trophy, there was no need for the terrier, the mountain reedbuck lay where he was hit. The second day was over, and I had taken three great trophies. Only two days into my ten-day hunt. My god, this trip could turn out to be something special. MAY 26, TODAY, AFRICA Today, we started out to hunt black wildebeest but got sidetracked by a truck that needed servicing. It looks like the morning will be used for the truck. Hopefully, we can hunt this afternoon. We are in the town of De Aar, where Mynhard was born. Like most towns I have seen in South Africa, it is neat in appearance. The streets and buildings are clean and well maintained. We are going for breakfast, and doing some shopping, while the truck is being serviced. Due to a misunderstanding, the truck is not ready until early afternoon. I have used my time well. Had the chance to meet a lot of locals. All of them are friendly and interested in my home country and our opinion of their country, South Africa. We hit the road around 2:00 in the afternoon. I am not sure if we will have a chance for our hunt. Mynhard seemed very disturbed with this morning’s events. When I told him it wasn’t important, I didn’t think he felt I was being honest. We drove for a few hours and pulled onto a large ranch. We met Abee, the owner, and his friend and neighbor, Army. They drove Mynhard and me out and on to the ranch. After a short time, we spotted a small herd of black wildebeest. We were nearly a mile away; by using the truck and with the contour of the land, we were able to cut the distance in half. We could not get any closer with the truck. Mynhard and I set off on foot. After low walking and crawling, we could get no closer. We were still 350 yards away. My hands and knees were spotted with blood. The rocks and thorns of African had taken their toll. We set up behind a large rock outcropping. It was getting late, and the sun was setting. The problem was that it was setting behind the animal that we wanted. The sun glared through my scope and I could barely see. Gauging the distance and catching my breath, I slowly squeezed the trigger. My shot hit just below the animal, and like a cool breeze on a hot summer evening, they were gone. What the hell had I done wrong? Mynhard assured me that it was a complete miss and if we were lucky, we might get a second chance at them. We took off in pursuit and, within a few minutes, caught up with them. Now they were really spooked and took off immediately, heading for some small hills. Mynhard said, “Good. Once they get to the hills, we will be able to get within shooting distance.” The owner of the ranch showed up, and we jumped into his truck to close the distance that the animals had gained on us. Before we expected to see them, there they were. We jumped out of the truck and set up on a shallow rise. It was easy to pick out the one we wanted, but the wildebeest had moved into an area with several farm animals. As we waited, the wildebeest moved nervously off, but not the one we wanted. After a short wait, my wildebeest stepped into the clear. Mynhard whispered, “Remember, slowly. The first shot counts. All the others don’t.” There was a stiff wind coming from my left, so I aimed just to the left of where I wanted to hit. Slowly, I eased back on the trigger, and the .270 jumped. I heard a solid thump. My trophy took several shaky steps, then fell on his side. As we watched, he rolled onto his back. Then, all was still. Everyone was saying, “Good shot.” The day’s hunt was over. To me, the black wildebeest is South Africa. It is a mixture of black, brown, and white. It is a strong animal, with powerful muscles. Its mane stands like a crown, with all of the colors mixed. So far I feel that this is my number one trophy. I would have been happy, if my hunt had ended now. Four great trophies, and yet, I have seven days left to hunt. MAY 27, IMPALA AND DINNER We are driving to the Eastern Cape, headquarters of John X Safaris. More importantly, to the Hill Side Lodge in the Eastern Cape. The trip should take about six hours. Along the way we will stop at a ranch that has large impala. I will try to take an impala at that ranch, but our time will be limited. We will have only two to three hours for the hunt. The ranch where we stopped is around 50,000 acres and very hilly, with heavy cover. Not the type of country where I thought impala would be. After all the proper introductions, we headed out on the ranch. It took us around two hours to find them. When I took my impala, I could have taken any one of three. My impala is a super animal, with horns over 23 inches long and a soft tan coat. When the thanks were done, we were back on the road. We arrived at the Hill Side Lodge in time for dinner. Had a chance to touch bases with my friends and to share our experiences. We were off to bed around 11:00 p.m. We will not be getting up early, as everyone is tired. MAY 28, DAY FIVE Up at 8:00 this morning. Had a great breakfast, then off to a concession about an hour away. We passed through the town of Grahamstown. It is an old frontier town. The architecture is typical old South African, and I want to return for some shopping and sightseeing. We made our way to a ranch, high in the hills, that surrounds Grahamstown. We arrived way too late for a normal morning hunt, so we drove around getting the lay of the land. During the day, we spotted and stalked several kudu. Mynhard felt they were too small for the first day. The hunt came to an end, with the drive back to the Hill Side Lodge. After a warm shower, a satisfying dinner, and some conversation, I was off to bed. A nice day, all in all. We will start much earlier tomorrow. MAY 29, DAY SIX I could not believe it, when my alarm went off at 4:00 this morning. It is very quiet in camp. When Mynhard drove up, I was ready to go. We went out to the same ranch, except this time it was dark. We picked up our guide, a local man named Twenty Bucks. More about him later. When we arrived at the ranch, it was just getting light. The sky was a dark blue, not black, and the clouds in the darkened sky were a crimson red. It is a sight that can be seen only in God’s country. Mynhard smiled and said to no one in particular, “It’s a good morning to be alive.” The morning passes and becomes early afternoon. We still have not taken a shot. All is not bad; we have seen lots of animals. This is just a partial list, although I am sure that there were more: red hartebeest, bat-eared fox, baboons, rhinos, kudu, blue wildebeest, steenbok, duikers, impalas, warthogs, rabbits, and loads of other critters and birds. One of the ways we hunt for kudu is to sit and glass, stay still, and just look. After about 30 minutes on the edge of a large canyon, we spotted a kudu and that warranted us getting closer. We started down the canyon wall, when a troop of baboons wandered into the canyon. They did not move as a group, but loosely, using sound to communicate. The alpha male lets out a yell that sounds like “Wah-Who,” and the others in the troop reply with softer sounds. As they moved through the canyon floor, the kudu, which is a shy animal, left the area quickly. Mynhard disgustedly said, “I would like to shoot all the baboons in South Africa.” I am not sure he understands that seeing nature in its wild state brings me great pleasure. Those baboons moving across the canyon and, yes, the kudu going over the opposite ridge, will be in my mind forever. All of the sights, sounds, and smells make this trip, a dream come true. To me, and most hunters, the best part of the hunt is before the shot. Once you take your shot, the hunt is over. Memories are all we take with us, and this trip is adding many new ones. About the man named Twenty Bucks. His name is pronounced “Two-win-tay Bucks.” He is a local black man and was born on the ranch that we are hunting. I am sure that he has seen every inch of the ranch and knows every animal on it. Twenty owns a small ranch and raises goats and sheep, along with growing produce for sale in the local markets. He is considered an industrious person. There are several families, as well as a tribe of natives, that live on the main ranch we are hunting. The tribe has around twelve huts, high on a plateau, where you can see for miles. The view is spectacular. Twenty is very content with himself and gives a small smile, when I show an interest in his land and its people. He knows how to use a gun but is not allowed to own one. That was one of the things that the local people sacrificed in order to end white rule. Just as a note, he does carry two large knives at all times. Here, it is customary to take a mid-day break. I haven’t got into the habit. Instead, I use that time to take notes and browse around on my own. Mynhard is a great host and PH, but he doesn’t cut you any slack and let’s you know he is in charge. I can’t complain, as he knows what he is doing better than anyone that I have met. He has done everything that I have asked and then some. MAY 30, MY KUDU, AT LONG LAST God. Nothing hurts today. I feel like I am 30 years younger. What a day. I got up at 4:30 this morning. We will be leaving around 5:00 a.m. and driving to the same ranch we hunted yesterday. Once at the ranch, we pick up Twenty and start the hunt. Within 30 minutes, we spotted a herd of kudus. The herd had a large male. We spent about 10 minutes getting into position. As I settled my cross hairs on the large bull, I squeezed the trigger and totally missed the animal. I could not believe it. Needless to say, the kudus were gone. Had my rifle or my scope messed up? Or was it me? We returned to the ranch house where there was a range so I could check out my firearm. After a shot at a paper target, I discovered it was me. I had blown the shot. Everyone tried to cheer me up and said I would get another chance. I was not happy. A chance of a lifetime was gone in a split second. We went back out on to the ranch. Sorry to say, I was not in the best of moods. After a while, we drove to the edge of a large canyon. At first, nothing seemed to be moving. Then, I spotted two female kudus. Twenty spotted some other kudus, and we gathered around him to glass them. While I was looking at the kudus that Twenty saw, Mynhard pointed out a large kudu ram walking across the valley floor. As the ram walked behind some brush, we set up the shooting sticks. With the .270 set, we waited. The ram came out from behind the brush and was walking fast. I needed him to stop in order for me to take the shot. Mynhard let out a low grunt and, as the sound traveled across the valley floor, the kudu stopped. Mynhard’s challenge had gotten the kudu’s attention. Three separate times, I started to squeeze the trigger. My heart was beating so fast, and my nerves were on edge, I was unable to hold the cross hairs where they belonged. I kept telling myself to make this shot count. The .270 barked, and the rifle pushed back into my shoulder. Mynhard and Twenty yelled, “Great shot.” Mynhard estimated the shot across the valley at just over 400 yards. The 150-grain Nosler had hit that ram in the front part of his right shoulder, traveled through his entire body, and exited the front of his left leg. He was dead before he hit the ground. I moved my old body down the hill, across the valley, and up the other side, where my kudu lay. I was shaking like a leaf. I had fulfilled a dream that started as a young boy, in my room, way after my mom had told me to go to bed, reading magazines about Africa and hunting kudu. Mynhard said, “Ron, the first one was just too close.” MAY 31, DAY OFF The five of us from California took the day off and went to Shamwari Game Reserve. For the entrance fee, we visited a make-believe native village. Once there, we were treated to music, dance, food, and a history of the local people. When we were done, we were loaded onto Land Rovers and taken to the game park. There was a tremendous amount of local game. We were able to see everything, from a mongoose to lions to leopards. Enjoyed ourselves very much. During our outing, we were charged by a mother elephant. She was trying to protect her baby. I am sure that the baby outweighed all of us together, but to Mama, it was still her baby. Got up close to several white rhinos and had a chance to see the tallest of the African game, the giraffe. All in all, everyone agreed that this was turning into one great vacation. JUNE 1, A MOST UNUSABLE TROPHY Today, I took my warthog. I had not realized that Twenty had scouted the entire day before. Mynhard and I arrived at the ranch about a half hour before sunrise, picked up Twenty, and set off to an area I had not been. The foliage was very dense, and the terrain was full of steep canyons. Once again, we drove to the edge of a large canyon. The canyon floor and the sides were covered with brush and small trees. I still did not realize that Twenty had seen a large warthog in the area yesterday. After spending an hour and seeing nothing but a few jackals, a smile crossed Twenty’s face. He pointed to a group of warthogs. The only problem was they were too far away. We needed to get closer. We spent the next 45 minutes moving ever so slowly, down the canyon wall. Not only did we not want to scare the game away, we did not want to fall. It’s a long way to the bottom. My knees had been giving me problems for the past few days. They hurt with each step. Finally, we managed to get to a spot where I could sit and get into a stable shooting position. I would need to make a seated, offhand shot of around 200 yards. The warthogs were eating and moving across the opposite canyon wall and had no idea we were there. As they moved in and out of the brush that dotted the landscape, I watched them through my scope. I wanted a clean shot. I had no reason to rush. The warthog that Twenty said for me to take moved into the clear. I squeezed the trigger slowly. The bullet hit him exactly where I wanted. He fell about 10 feet down the canyon wall and lodged against a tree. An unusual looking animal, but an excellent trophy. This may sound funny, but I do not think he knew we were there until after he died. JUNE 2, ADDO ELEPHANT PARK We decided to take today off. I could have gone hunting for something, but I am so high on this trip that I don’t need any more. I talked with Saskia, Peter’s wife and my friend. Mynhard will be taking us to Addo Elephant Park. Mynhard knows the park well, as his brother was the head PH there for several years. Once at the park, Mynhard drove to a remote water hole. There they were. A large herd of elephants. Lots of photos, a short drive to the lodge, some shopping, and great steak topped with “monkey gland sauce.” Not as spicy as they say it was, though. On the drive back to the Hill Side Lodge, we stopped at an election station. This is South Africa’s second free election, and Saskia was interested in talking to people who were voting. She wanted to report back to her ladies group in her temporary home in Hong Kong. Once we finished, we were on our way back to the lodge. The evening progressed with dinner, a few drinks, lots of conversation, then to bed. Peter had spent the day trying to bag a zebra. He returned that evening with a large male. This was a proper end to our great hunt. JUNE 3, ON TO CAPE TOWN No one rose early today, as our hunt is over. Once again, a relaxing breakfast. Then everyone returns to their rooms to pack. The driver arrives to take us to Port Elizabeth and the airport. The flight to Cape Town is pleasant. Once in Cape Town, we take a shuttle to our hotel. Our hotel is on the beach, overlooking the Indian Ocean. Until the sixth, we will be staying in Cape Town. JUNE 4, FIRST FULL DAY IN CAPE TOWN AND THE WINE TOUR Today, we planned on spending a relaxing day on a wine tour. Scott, our driver, knew the wine country well. Three others from Johannesburg, South Africa, joined the three of us. After touring two wineries, we went to a restaurant high on a hill, overlooking the town of French Hook. This restaurant was some of the finest dining that I have ever experienced. After lunch, which took nearly three hours, we were behind schedule. We decided to forgo the remaining wineries and return to Cape Town. The three people we met on our wine tour are in the restaurant business. They called Saskia and invited us to join them that evening for dinner. We ended up going to a Greek restaurant. Lots of starters, good drinks, and great food. JUNE 5, LAST FULL DAY IN SOUTH AFRICA This morning we went to the waterfront area of Cape Town. Had a nice breakfast then went shopping. There were many interesting things to see, but I don’t think I would ever use them. Picked up a few gifts, then returned to the hotel to start packing. Taking a break, I went down to the beach for a walk. Ran into Peter in the hotel lobby. He was going to the Two Oceans Aquarium and asked me to tag along. After the aquarium, we found out from Saskia that we were invited out to dinner this evening. Halfheartedly, I agreed to go, but like the marathon runners say, “I have hit the wall.” JUNE 6, LAST DAY Well, it’s over for now. Bags are packed and ready for the trip home. We have been told that there is a large flea market/fair being held today. For lack of anything else to do, we will go. Really do not need to buy anything more, as my bags are packed to the bursting point. THOUGHTS For the last three weeks, I have spent a pleasant time in South Africa. Hopefully, I have made friends in that country. All of the people that I met are warm and friendly. They show a great deal of interest in what my country, America, feels about their country, South Africa. South Africa has gone from total white-rule to a freely-elected government in the last five years. I think, with America’s help, South Africa can become a great state within the continent of Africa and a force in our world. I will look forward to seeing that come to pass. AFTERTHOUGHTS (HUNTERS) Several days after my hunt was over and I had returned home, a friend asked me what one thing stood out, above all others. After much thought, I realized I had not written anything from my notes about an experience that I had that made a lasting memory. So this follows. Late one evening, while we were driving back to camp, Twenty spotted a large warthog. We jumped out of the truck and followed the warthog into a grove of trees. Once we were in the trees, someone pointed out a very large kudu. The kudu had seen us and was doing its very best to escape. Each time he would try and make a break for freedom, someone was in his way. Then, he would turn and bolt in another direction. There was a lot of yelling among us, and the kudu was running back and forth, busting through the brush. It had gotten way too dark for me to see through my scope. We stopped and let the kudu run away. What impressed me about those few seconds was that I did not need my rifle; I could have traded it for a spear or club. That event could have happened today or hundreds of years ago. There is a connection among hunters that transcends time. For those few seconds, I felt it. Ron Machado, 1999 Rewritten 10/29/07 |
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© Copyright: Ronald Machado - 2002
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