Ramblings of a
First-Time African Hunter.
Arrived at San Francisco
International Airport on time and ready to go.
Had some minor problems with the check-in. The airlines had me staying in Florida until June 6th,
instead of flying through to RSA. Everyone
seemed understanding. With a little
work, all ended well.
As I start this adventure, I am
not sure what to expect. South
Africa. Thoughts of my childhood,
such as articles from Outdoor Life, old Tarzan movies, and Spider Web and
his jungle machine, run through my mind.
The adventure begins with the
first leg of my flight, San Francisco to Miami.
Then, on to Cape Town and Africa.
May 22, MIAMI TO CAPE TOWN, SOUTH
AFRICA
Arrived in Cape Town, 40 minutes
early. Only 13 hours and 14 minutes
from Miami. Yeah, only.
Weather was scudding and cold, but everyone seems friendly.
Customs was a breeze.
Everyone was helpful. With
the help of a local, I was back at the airlines counter getting ready to start
my last leg to Port Elizabeth. From
what I understand, someone from our outfitters will pick us up early tomorrow
morning.
MAY 23, PORT ELIZABETH
Woke up this morning to a
beautiful sunrise. The Indian Ocean
is just 100 yards away, and the waves are very shallow.
Going to have breakfast alone this morning, as everyone is still
sleeping.
Met with Harry, one of the
professional hunters (PH) from John X Safaris.
The plans have been changed slightly.
I am going to Vanderkloof in the Northern Cape.
Once there, I will meet my PH, Mynhard Herholdt.
Then, my hunt will start.
The drive to Vanderkloof took
about six hours and was very relaxing. Our
driver was knowledgeable of the country and shared that knowledge freely.
The landscape was similar to Nevada, with its high desert.
The country was full of hills and canyons, with wild animals everywhere. The foliage was similar to our scrub oak, and there were
buttes all around the horizon.
MAY 24, FIRST DAY OF MY HUNT
First thing this morning, Mynhard
and I went to a spot where he thought game would pass.
We were there about 45 minutes. During
that time, three young gemsbuck came within 25 yards of us.
Two older gemsbuck, not yet trophies, passed within 15 yards of us, also.
One of them stayed in front of us at about 30 yards for over 15 minutes.
The highlight of that stand was when a herd of springbok came over a
ridge about a half-mile away and then cut through the valley floor. They stopped about 10 yards in front of us.
Both of us remained very still. While
the springbok knew something was not right, they did not know what it was.
They stayed there for over five minutes, stomping and snorting, until
natural instincts took over and they split.
Sorry to say, I had left my camera in the truck.
A little later that morning,
Mynhard spotted a large herd of gemsbuck and felt that they deserved a closer
look. After glassing them from a
low ridge, Mynhard pointed one out to me and said that it was as good as he had
seen in a long time. He wanted me
to take him. The shot was not long,
only a hundred yards or so, but it was an important one. My first shot in Africa, and I am sure that my PH was
evaluating me. The gemsbuck moved
in the clear and presented the classic broadside pose.
I placed the cross hairs on the gemsbuck’s shoulder, slowly squeezing
the trigger. At the sound of the
shot, the gemsbuck fell, not taking one step.
After we walked to the downed animal, Mynhard showed a broad smile as he
told me that my gemsbuck was well over 40 inches and was the largest one he had
taken. Later, I was told that he
has taken over 200 gemsbuck, so mine was very special.
Went back to the lodge this
afternoon. It is high on a hill,
overlooking a large, manmade lake named after the town of Vanderkloof.
Vanderkloof is a small retirement community and, like most towns in South
Africa, is very neat and well trimmed.
I am sitting on the patio of our
lodge, overlooking the lake, as the sun is setting. John has taken a great gemsbuck, and Saskia and Peter have
returned. Peter has taken all three
springbucks, common, black and white. Needless
to say, he is very happy.
At the end of the first day, I can
say that I am very pleased with John X Safaris. The people, equipment, and the leases have all been first
class.
MAY 25, DAY TWO
Mynhard and I started our hunt
about 9:00 a.m. After driving
around for the better part of an hour, we spotted several young eland and kudu
and stopped to take some photos. While
we were there, one of Mynhard’s friends drove up.
They talked for several minutes, then Mynhard came over and asked me if I
would like to try for a real nice springbok with my S-W M629.
To make a long story short, we drove a few miles, then got out of the
truck and did a short stalk. We got
within 75 yards of the springbok, and I made the shot.
I now have the number 3 springbok taken with a handgun.
(Safari Club International)
That afternoon, we went to a hilly
area. The valley that we walked up
was full of loose rocks and shale. The
walk was not hard, but it wasn’t easy, either.
After walking for just under an
hour, a mountain reedbuck jumped up in front of us and took off.
Since we were hunting mountain reedbuck, we were interested.
Mynhard told me that he was a good one and if he stopped, to “try to
take him.” The reedbuck made a
long circle through the valley. He
stopped once, behind a large bush. After
he caught his breath, he was off with a vengeance.
He stopped again but was about 375 yards away.
The only good thing was that he was in the clear.
I was told to keep the crosshairs of my scope just under his back line
where the neck and back came together and to “squeeze the trigger slowly.”
I did what I was told. At
the sound of the shot, my back was slapped and “Great shot” was yelled in my
ear. We had a Jack Russell terrier
with us, in case the animal was hit and tried to get away.
After the quick walk up to my trophy, there was no need for the terrier
as the mountain reedbuck lay were he was hit.
The second day was over, and I had
taken three great trophies. Only
two days into my ten-day hunt. My
god, this trip could turn out to be something special.
MAY 26, DAY THREE
Today, we started out to hunt
black wildebeest but got sidetracked by a truck that needed servicing.
It looks like the morning will be used for the truck. Hopefully,
we can hunt this afternoon.
We are in the town of De Aar,
where Mynhard was born. Like most
towns I have seen in South Africa, it is neat in appearance. The streets and buildings are clean and well groomed.
We are going for breakfast, then do some shopping, while the truck is
being serviced.
Due to a misunderstanding, the
truck is not ready until early afternoon. I
have used my time well. Had the
chance to meet a lot of locals. All
of them are friendly and interested in the States.
We hit the road around 2:00 p.m. I
am not sure if we will have a chance for our hunt. Mynhard seemed very disturbed with this morning’s events.
When I told him that it wasn’t important, I really didn’t think he
felt I was being honest.
We drove for a few hours and
pulled onto a large ranch. We met
Abee, the owner, and his friend and neighbor, Army.
They drove Mynhard and me out on the ranch. After a short time, we
spotted a small herd of black wildebeest. Even
though we were nearly a mile away, by using the truck and with the contour of
the land, we cut the distance in half. We were not able to get any closer with the truck, so Mynhard
and I set off on foot. After hiding
behind brush and rocks, we could get no closer than 300 to 350 yards.
My hands and knees were spotted with blood.
The rocks and thorns of the African plain had taken their toll.
We were behind a large rock
outcropping, as I set up my .270. It
was getting late, and the sun was setting.
The problem was that it was setting behind the animal that I wanted.
The sun glared through my scope so badly that I was barely able to see
him. After gauging the distance and
catching my breath, I slowly squeezed the trigger.
My shot hit just below the animal, and like a cool breeze on a hot summer
evening, they were gone. What the
hell had I done wrong? Mynhard
assured me that it was a complete miss and if we were lucky, we might get a
second chance at them. We took off
in pursuit and, within a few minutes, caught up with them.
They were really spooked now and took off immediately, heading for some
small hills.
Mynhard said, “Good.
Once they get to the hills, we will be able to get within shooting
distance.”
The owner of the ranch showed up,
and we jumped into his truck to close the distance that the animals had gained
on us. Before we expected to see
them, there they were. We jumped
out of the truck and set up on a shallow rise.
It was easy to pick out the one we wanted, but the wildebeest had moved
into an area with several farm animals. As
we waited, the wildebeest moved nervously off, but not the one we wanted.
After a short wait, my wildebeest stepped into the clear.
Mynhard whispered, “Now,
remember, slowly. The first shot
counts. All the others don’t.”
There was a stiff wind coming from
my left, so I aimed just to the right of where I wanted to hit.
Slowly, I eased back on the trigger, and the .270 jumped.
I heard a solid thump. My
trophy took several shaky steps then fell on his side.
As we watched, he rolled onto his back.
Then, all was still.
Everyone was saying, “Good
shot.”
The day’s hunt was over.
The black wildebeest is South
Africa. It is a mixture of black,
brown, and white. It is a strong
animal, with powerful muscles. Its
mane stands like a crown, with all of the colors mixed. I feel that this is my number one trophy.
I would have been happy if my hunt had ended now.
Four great trophies, and I have seven days left to hunt.
MAY 27, DAY FOUR-BACK TO THE
EASTERN CAPE
We are driving to the Eastern
Cape. More importantly, to the Hill
Side Lodge in the Eastern Cape. The
trip should take about six hours. We
will stop at a ranch along the way that has large impala.
I will try to take an impala at that ranch, but our time will be limited.
We will have only two to three hours for the hunt.
The ranch we stopped at is around 50,000 acres and very hilly, with heavy
cover. Not the type of country
where I thought impala would be. After
all the proper introductions, we headed out on the ranch.
It took us around two hours to spot them. When I took my impala, I could have taken any one of three.
My impala is a super animal, with horns over 23 inches long and a soft
tan coat. When the thanks were
done, we were back on the road.
We arrived at the Hill Side Lodge
in time for dinner. Had a chance to
touch bases with my friends and to share our experiences.
We were off to bed around 11:00 p.m.
Will not be getting up early, as everyone is tired.
MAY 28, DAY FIVE
Up at 8:00 this morning.
Had a great breakfast, then off to a ranch about an hour away.
We passed through a town named Grahamstown.
It is an old frontier town. The
architecture is typical old South African, and I want to return for some
shopping and sightseeing.
We made our way to a ranch, high
in the hills, that surrounds Grahamstown. We
arrived way too late for a normal morning hunt, so we drove around getting the
lay of the land. During the day, we
spotted and stalked several kudu. Mynhard
felt they were too small for the first day.
The hunt came to an end, with the drive back to the Hill Side Lodge.
After a nice warm shower, a
satisfying dinner, and some conversation, I went to bed.
A nice day, all in all. We
will start much earlier tomorrow.
MAY 29, DAY SIX
I could not believe it, when my
alarm went off at 4:00 this morning. It
is quiet in camp, at this time of the morning.
When Mynhard drove up, I was ready
to go. We drove out to the same
ranch, except this time it was dark. We
picked up our guide, a man named Twenty Bucks.
More about him later.
When we arrived at the ranch, it
was just getting light. The sky was
a dark blue, not black, and the clouds in the darkened sky were a crimson red.
It is a sight that can be seen only in the country.
Mynhard smiled and said to no one
in particular, “It’s a good morning to be alive.”
The morning passes and becomes
early afternoon. We still have not
taken a shot. No game in the
locker. All is not bad; we have
seen lots of animals. This is just
a partial list, although I am sure that there were more: red hartebeest,
bat-eared fox, baboons, rhinos, kudu, blue wildebeest, steenbok, duikers,
impalas, warthogs, rabbits, and loads of other critters and birds.
We had driven to the edge of a
large canyon. One of the ways we
hunt for kudu is to sit and glass, stay still, and just look.
After about 30 minutes, we spotted a kudu and that warranted us getting
closer. We started down the canyon
wall, when a troop of baboons wandered into the canyon.
They did not move as a group, but loosely, using sound to communicate. The alpha male lets out a yell that sounds like “Wah-Who,”
and the others in the troop reply with softer sounds. As they moved through the canyon floor, the kudu, which is a
shy animal, left the area quickly.
Mynhard disgustedly said, “I
would like to shoot all the baboons in South Africa.”
I don’t think he understands
that seeing nature in action brings me great pleasure. Those baboons moving across the canyon and, yes, the kudu
going over the opposite ridge, will be in my mind forever. All of the sights, sounds, and smells make this trip a dream
come true.
To me, the best part of the hunt
is before the shot. Once you take
your shot, the hunt is over. Memories
are all we take with us, and this trip is adding many new ones.
About the man named Twenty Bucks.
His name is pronounced “Two-win-tay Bucks.”
He is a local black man and was born on the ranch that we are hunting.
I am sure that he has seen every inch of the ranch and knows every animal
on it.
There are several families, as
well as a tribe of natives, that live on the farm.
The tribe has around twelve huts high on a plateau, where you can see for
miles. The view is spectacular.
Twenty is very content with himself and gives a small smile when I show
an interest in his land and its people. He
knows how to use a gun but is not allowed to own one.
That was one of the things that the local people sacrificed in order to
end white rule. Just as a note, he
does carry two large knives at all times.
Here, it is customary to take a
mid-day break. I haven’t got into
the habit. Instead, I use that time
to take notes and browse around on my own.
Mynhard is a great host and PH, but he doesn’t cut you any slack when
he is in charge. I can’t
complain, as he knows what he is doing better than anyone that I have met.
He has done everything that I have asked and then some.
MAY 30, DAY SEVEN
God. Nothing hurts today. I
feel like I am 30 years younger. What
a day. I got up at 4:30 this
morning. Yesterday was just too
early. We will be leaving around
5:00 a.m. and driving to the same ranch we hunted yesterday.
Once at the ranch, we pick up Twenty and start the hunt.
Within 30 minutes, we spotted a
herd of kudus. The herd had a large
male. We spent about 10 minutes
getting into position. As I settled
my cross hairs on the large bull, I squeezed the trigger and totally missed the
animal. I could not believe I
missed. Needless to say, the kudus
were gone.
Had my rifle or my scope messed
up? Or was it me?
We returned to the ranch house where there was a range so I could check
out my firearm. After a shot at a
paper target, I discovered it was me. I
had blown the shot. Everyone tried
to cheer me up and said I would get another chance.
I was not really happy. A
chance of a lifetime was gone in a split second.
We went back on the ranch. Sorry
to say, I was not in the best of moods. After
driving around for a while, we drove to the edge of a large canyon.
At first, nothing seemed to be moving.
Then, I spotted two female kudus. Twenty
spotted some other kudus, and we gathered around him to glass them.
While I was looking at the kudus that Twenty saw, Mynhard pointed out a
large kudu ram walking across the valley floor. As the ram walked behind some brush, we set up the shooting
sticks. With the .270 set, we
waited. The ram came out from
behind the brush, and he was walking fast.
I needed him to stop in order for me to take the shot. Mynhard let out a low grunt and, as the sound traveled across
the valley floor, the kudu stopped. Mynhard’s
challenge had got the kudu’s attention. Three
separate times, I started to squeeze the trigger.
My heart was beating so fast, and my nerves were on edge, that I was
unable to hold the cross hairs where they belonged.
I kept telling myself to make this shot count.
The .270 barked, and the rifle pushed back into my shoulder.
I thought I heard a thump.
Then, Mynhard and Twenty yelled,
“Great shot.”
Mynhard estimated the shot across
the valley at just over 400 yards. The
150-grain Nosler had hit that ram in the front part of his right shoulder,
traveled through his entire body, and exited the front of his left leg.
He was dead before he hit the ground.
I moved my old body down the hill and across the valley and up the other
side, where my kudu lay. I was shaking like a leaf.
I had fulfilled a dream that started as a young boy, reading in my room
after my mom had told me to go to bed, magazines about Africa and hunting kudus.
Mynhard said, “Ron, the first
one was just too close.”
MAY 31, DAY EIGHT
The five of us took the day off
and went to Shamwari Game Reserve. For
the entrance fee, we visited a make-believe native village.
Once there, we were treated to music, dance, food, and a history of the
local people. When we were done, we
were loaded onto Land Rovers and taken to the game park.
There was a tremendous number of local game.
We were able to see everything from a mongoose to lions to leopards. Enjoyed ourselves very much.
During our outing, we were charged
by a mother elephant. She was
trying to protect her baby. I am
sure that the baby outweighed all of us, but to Mama, it was still her baby.
Got up close to several white rhinos and had a chance to see the tallest
of the African game, the giraffe.
All in all, everyone agreed that
this was turning into one great vacation.
JUNE 1, DAY NINE
Today, I took my warthog.
I had not realized that Twenty had scouted the entire day before.
Mynhard and I arrived at the ranch about a half hour before sunup, picked
up Twenty, and set off to an area of the ranch where I had not been. The foliage was very dense, and the terrain was full of steep
canyons.
Once again, we drove to the edge
of a large canyon. The canyon floor
and the sides were covered with brush and small trees. I still did not realize
that Twenty had seen a large warthog in the area.
After spending an hour and seeing nothing but a few jackals, a smile
crossed Twenty’s face. He pointed
to a group of warthogs. The only
problem was they were too far away. We
needed to get closer. We spent the
next 45 minutes moving ever so slowly, down the canyon wall. Not only did we not want to scare the game away, we did not
want to fall. It’s a long way to
the bottom. My knees had been
giving me problems since the fourth day. They
hurt with each step. Finally, we
managed to get to a spot where I could sit and get into a stable shooting
position. I would need to make a
seated, offhand shot of around 200 yards. The
warthogs were eating and moving across the opposite canyon wall and had no idea
we were there. As they moved in and
out of the brush that dotted the landscape, I watched them through my scope.
I wanted a clean shot. I had no reason to rush.
The warthog that Twenty said for me to take moved into the clear. I squeezed the trigger slowly.
The bullet hit him exactly where I wanted. He fell about 10 feet down the canyon wall and lodged against
a tree. An unusual looking animal,
but an excellent trophy. This may
sound funny, but I do not think he knew we were there until after he died.
JUNE 2, DAY TEN
Decided to take today off.
I could have gone hunting for something, but I am so high on this trip
that I don’t need to do any more.
Talked with Saskia and Mynhard.
We will be going to Addo Elephant Park.
Mynhard knows the park well, as his brother was a PH there for several
years.
Once at the park, Mynhard drove to
a remote water hole. There they
were. A large herd of elephants.
Lots of photos, a short drive to the lodge, some shopping, and great
steak topped with “monkey gland sauce.”
Not as spicy as they say it was.
On the drive back to the Hill Side
Lodge, we stopped at an election station. This
is South Africa’s second free election, and Saskia was interested in talking
to people who were voting so she could report back to her ladies group in her
home of Hong Kong.
Once we finished, we were on our
way back to the lodge. The evening
progressed with dinner, a few drinks, lots of conversation, and then to bed.
Peter had spent the day trying to
bag a zebra. He returned that
evening with a large male. This was
a proper end to our great hunt.
JUNE 3, DAY ELEVEN
No one rose early today, as our
hunt is over. Once again, a
relaxing breakfast. Then everyone
returns to their rooms to pack.
The driver arrives to take us to
Port Elizabeth and the airport. The
flight to Cape Town is pleasant. Once
in Cape Town, we take a shuttle to our hotel.
This is living. Our hotel is
on the beach, overlooking the Indian Ocean.
We will be staying in Cape Town until the sixth.
JUNE 4, FIRST FULL DAY IN CAPE
TOWN
Today, we planned on spending a
relaxing day on a wine tour. Scott,
our driver, knew the wine country well. The
three of us joined three others from Johannesburg, South Africa, on the tour.
After touring two wineries, we went to a restaurant high on a hill,
overlooking the town of French Hook. This
restaurant was one of the finest dining experiences that I have ever had.
After lunch, which took nearly three hours, we were behind schedule.
We decided to forgo the remaining wineries and return to Cape Town.
The three people we met on our
wine tour are in the restaurant business. They
called Saskia and invited us to join them this evening for dinner.
We ended up going to a Greek restaurant.
Lots of starters, good drinks, and great food.
I could get used to this very easily.
JUNE 5, LAST FULL DAY IN SOUTH
AFRICA
Went to the waterfront area of
Cape Town this morning. Had a nice
breakfast and then went shopping. There
were many interesting things to see while shopping, but I don’t think I would
ever use them. Picked up a few
gifts, then returned to the hotel to start packing.
Taking a break from packing, I went down to the beach for a walk.
Ran into Peter in the hotel lobby. He
was going to the Two Oceans Aquarium and asked me to tag along.
After the aquarium, we found out from Saskia that we were invited out to
dinner this evening. Halfheartedly,
I agree to go, but like the marathon runners say, “I have hit the wall.”
JUNE 6, LAST DAY
Well, it’s over for now.
Bags are packed and ready for the trip home.
We have been told that there is a large flea market/fair being held
today. For lack of anything else to
do, we will go. Really do not need to buy anything more, as my bags are
packed to the bursting point.
THOUGHTS
For the last three weeks, I have
spent a pleasant time in South Africa. Hopefully,
I have made friends in that country. All
of the people that I met are warm and friendly.
They show a great deal of interest in what my country, America, feels for
their country, South Africa. South
Africa has gone from a total white-rule country to a freely elected government
in the last five years. I think
with our help, South Africa can become a great state within the total of the
continent of Africa and a force in our world.
I look forward to seeing it come to pass.
AFTERTHOUGHTS
Several days after my hunt was
over and I had returned home, a friend asked me what one thing stood out, above
all others. After much thought, I
realized I had not written anything from my notes about an experience that I had
that made a lasting memory. So this
follows.
Late one evening, while we were
driving back to camp, Twenty spotted a large warthog. We jumped out of the truck and followed the warthog into a
grove of trees. Once we were in the
trees, someone pointed out a very large kudu.
The kudu had seen us and was doing its very best to escape.
Each time he would try and make a break for freedom, someone was in his
way. Then, he would turn and bolt
in another direction. There was a
lot of yelling among us, and the kudu was running back and forth, busting
through the brush. It had gotten
way too dark for me to see through my scope.
We stopped and let the kudu run away.
What impressed me about those few
seconds was that I did not need my rifle; I could have traded it for a spear.
That event could have happened today or hundreds of years ago.
There is a connection among
hunters that transcends time. For
those few seconds, I felt it.
Ron Machado,
1999
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